The Wildman Project

Twin Bed Part I – The Frame

This project has been my most viewed project on my YouTube channel to date. There has been many requests for the plans for this project, so I am putting together some step by step instructions. This is my first time doing this, so we will see how it goes. I am using Google SketchUp to make my drawings. I have used a different color for each of the pieces. That is what I will use when giving you the steps.

Material List:

4 – Kiln Dried 2″x4″x8′  $2.79ea = $11.16

2 – Furring Strips 1-3/8″x1-3/8″x8′ $2.07ea = $4.14

7 – Furring Strips 11/16″x2-3/8″x8′ $2.12ea = $14.84

3 – Primed Pine Board 1″x3″x8′ $4.67ea = $14.01

Screws – 3″, 2-1/2″ and 1-1/2″ (already had)

Wood Glue (already had)

Primer, Final Paint Color (already had)


The first step is to cut two of the 2×4’s down to 76-½”, these will be for the long rails which are colored in brown in the picture below.  Another 2×4 needs to be cut into two 39” pieces and these will be the short rails which are colored in turquoise. Assemble the 2×4 as seen in the picture below, making sure the short rails are in between the long rails.  Screw two 3” screws into each end to attach them together. I like to pre-drill when using long screws, which means drilling a hole slightly smaller that your screw into the ends of the long rails.


After the four pieces are screwed together, you want to make sure it is square. What I mean by square is, all corners are at 90 degrees. Take your time and be patient because this could get a little frustrating at times. In my video at 3:55 I show you how to square up the rail pieces.

The next two steps I flipped flopped in the video. I don’t think it matters which way you do it, but if you put the side supports on first it might be easier. So for the side supports, you will need two 1-3/8″x1-3/8″ pieces cut down to 73-½”. Once cut, place them on the inside of the frame as shown in the picture below. They will be flush with at the bottom. Then screw 6-8 2-½” screws from the red piece into the brown pieces. If you want, you can add a little wood glue for extra support.

side supports

Next you want to attach the feet. The feet are 6-½” long and you will need 4 of them. I just used left over’s 2″x4″‘s from when I cut the 76-½” long rails. Once cut, measure 4” from one end and make a little mark with your pencil. This mark you will line up with the bottom of the frame, so your feet will stick out 4”, or another way to look at it is your bed will be 4” off the ground. Pre-drill two screw holes in the 2-½” end and attach them to the turquoise pieces.


feet-side support under

Now we need to add a center support. You know your kids are going to want to jump on the bed, so this added support will be necessary. Cut one 2″x4″ down to 73-½” and center it in between the two side supports. Flush it with the bottom of the frame like you did the side supports. Then cut a 4” piece of 2″x4″ and attach it in the center of the center support. This will help keep the center support from flexing. See picture below. I removed the green feet so its easier to see.

center support

To add more support for the mattress, we are going to add cross members that will attached to the side supports and center support.  If you think your child is going to jump on this bed, you might want to put a piece of plywood here. The 11/16″x2-3/8″cross member is not very strong and could break. I have used 13 cross members cut to 39”. You can get two pieces out of one 11/16″x2-3/8″x8′. I have evenly spaced out the 13 cross members, with a 3-¼” (roughly) in between each one.


Finally, we need to add a 1”x3” top cap. Of the three pieces, you need to cut two to  75” and one to 44”. These will go one the sides and the bottom of the bed. We don’t need one for the top, because that is where the headboard goes. Put a screw every 8”-10“. I used a counter sink so that the head of the screw is below the surface of the wood. Then use a wood filler to fill the hole and sand smooth. All three pieces will be flush with the inside of the bed and will have a over hang of  1”. I also used my router and routed a ¼” round over on all edges of the top cap. That way there are no sharp edges. If you don’t have a router, you can use a sanding block.

top cap

top cap under

After the construction of The Frame, you will want to fill all the holes, cracks, dings and dent with a wood filler. After it dries, sand smooth and apply a coat of primer. After the primer is dry, you can then apply your final color.

So for $44.15 you can make this twin bed frame. If you need to but screws, glue, paint, etc., then this price will go up. Not bad, I think. Its a nice sturdy bed that will last a long time.


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